One of the most beautiful places to visit in central Mexico is Morelia, in the State of Michoacán. Part of UNESCO Heritage, the old colonial city was founded in 1547 with the name of Valladolid by the Viceroy of New Spain, by grant of King Phillip II. The city prospered and hundreds of new buildings were constructed. The seat of the Bishop of Michoacán was transferred from Pátzcuaro to Valladolid in 1540 and the city is home to many convents. It is said that you cannot walk one block without encountering church.
With beautiful architecture featuring the pink stone from the area quarries, the city is built in the baroque style, and it boasts over 1700 heritage buildings. In the early 1800’s the city was the hot spot for insurrection, and the movement for Independence started in Valladolid. The leaders of the movement were two priests, one of which was born and educated in the city. Valladolid was renamed Morelia in 1828 in honour of one if its sons, Jose Maria Morelos y Pavon, a hero of our Independence.
The city is beautiful, historic and culturally important. But the food in Morelia is equally impressive. As you know, Mexican Gastronomy attained the nomination for UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010, but what you may not know is that it happened thanks to the food or Michoacán, and specifically the Purepecha people native to the State. A visit to Michoacán is worth its weight in food! The State boasts an impressive number of traditional cooks - all women - scattered around the towns near Morelia. Many of them cook out of their homes and it is possible to visit and sample their food. They have a gathering every Spring in Morelia - Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales (food fair) - that is well worth the trip.
Honouring family traditions and roots, the food of Michoacán stays true to its historic past. Women still grind corn on metates to make masa, and the tortillas there are some of the best I’ve ever had. Uchepos and Corundas, both types of tamales, are only made there and they are simple but complex, carrying hundreds of years of history within them. The stews, called Atakapuas, thickened with masa are unique and originally plant-based before the arrival of the Spanish. The list goes on and on. The food in Morelia is outstanding, that’s all I can say.
Walking the streets of the old city is a pleasure and one can find all kinds of treats. I was there in April and the days were hot. One of of the best things you can buy is a Gazpacho Moreliano. Not the same as the Spanish cold soup, this gazpacho is a refreshing fruit cocktail. The traditional version is made with jicama, mango and pineapple, mixed and layered with dry, salty cotija cheese and chile piquin on tall glasses. Topped up with fresh orange juice and served with a spoon. Wandering around the plaza with a gazpacho in hand is a common sight in Morelia and you will encounter Gazpacherías almost on every block.
I am giving you some guidelines to make this, as you don’t really need a recipe. Make it to your taste. Layer the fruit, cheese and chile in the glasses, then add enough orange juice to come up about 2/3 of the way. If desired or needed, you can add lime juice and salt to taste. You can add watermelon or cantaloupe to the fruit, or cucumber to your mix if you want to add a vegetable component. Some people like to add chamoy - that tangy, spicy apricot hibiscus sauce. Make your gazpacho in tiny glasses as an appetizer, or large like in Morelia, but try it and see what all the fuss is about!
GAZPACHO MORELIANO
Morelian Fruit Cocktail
2 parts diced mango (I like Ataulfos)
2 parts diced pineapple
3 parts diced jicama
Fresh orange juice
Fresh lime juice (optional)
Grated cotija cheese, or dry feta
Dry chile piquin or Tajin
Chamoy sauce (optional)
In bowl, combine mango, pineapple and jicama.
Fill glasses halfway and sprinkle with cheese and chile.
Continue to fill the glasses with fruit and top with more cheese and chile.
Pour orange juice into glasses to fill 2/3 of the way.
Squeeze lime juice if desired and sprinkle with a bit of salt and drizzle with chamoy if using.
Serve with a spoon and enjoy!