Mole is the crown jewel of Mexican sauces. It is refined, delicious and has a complexity of flavour that demonstrates the real fusion of two cultures in one dish. Mole was created by our prehispanic ancestors, they would mix pumpkin seeds, tomatoes and herbs to make a sauce simply called Molli. This sauce was served with “guajolote” - wild turkey. It was used as a ceremonial dish and was often offered to the Gods.
When the Spanish arrived, they brought all manner of new spices and ingredients, and the molli that existed was then re-created to include these new ingredients and it became the Mole as we know it today. The most famous recipe is attributed to Sor Andrea de la Asunción, a nun in the convent of Santa Rosa in the city of Puebla, circa 1681. As the story goes, she is the one that created this “new” recipe, including the original dried chiles, pumpkin seeds, tomatoes and herbs, but adding onions, garlic, sesame seeds, black pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, peanuts, pecans, etc.
Mole recipes vary, as with everything, from household to household. In Mexico, there is great debate as well between States, as Oaxaca is called the Land of the 7 Moles. So which one is the best and most delicious Mole? I think they are all delicious, all of them are slightly different, but they all carry a long history with them.
When I say the word Mole, most people think of “that chocolate sauce”. Nothing could be further from the truth! Some of the moles do indeed have chocolate as an ingredient, as with Mole Poblano or this Mole Colorado, but the chocolate is only added at the end and is not meant to be noticeable, it is meant to be a finishing touch.
As with many Mexican dishes, when we are making a mole, we do not want to be able to pick out any one single ingredient or flavour - the sauce has to be a true blend that tastes heavenly, without giving out hints of specific ingredients. And the chocolate? Well, the chocolate adds a subtle sweetness that works wonderfully well with the heat or smoke of the chiles.
Mole is a work of art, and the longer it cooks, the better it gets. Making mole is a long process, but by no means difficult. If you feel like tackling this recipe, you will be rewarded with the most velvety, flavourful, complex sauce that can be used in many ways. The most typical, of course, is served with roast chicken or turkey, but it makes delicious Enmoladas or tamales.
This recipe is my version of Mole Colorado. Thanks to modern appliances, it can be made in less than two hours, so gather your ingredients, put some music on and make a pot of Mexican historical gastronomy.
MOLE COLORADITO
Red Mole
8 ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded and de-veined
6 guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and de-veined
3 large plum tomatoes
1 large onion, chopped into large chunks
8 garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 ½ Tbsp rendered lard or vegetable oil
1/3 cup raw pecans
1/3 cup raw peanuts
1/4 cup raw sesame seeds
1 Tbsp Mexican oregano
8 whole black peppercorns
1” piece canela (Mexican cinnamon)
4 whole cloves
4-5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Salt to taste
Sugar to taste
60g Mexican chocolate, or more to taste
Protein or vegetable of your choice, poached or roasted
Toast chiles on a dry griddle or skillet, taking care not to burn them, and then soak them in very hot water for about 30 minutes, or until they’re completely soft.
On griddle, roast the tomatoes, onion and garlic, turning often, until soft and blackened.
Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp lard on a frying pan and sauté pecans and peanuts. When they are golden, add the sesame seeds, oregano, peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves and sauté for another minute. Remove from pan and cool.
Place soft chiles and just enough soaking chile water in a blender to process until completely smooth. Pass mixture through a sieve or food mill if needed - there should not be any skins visible. Set aside.
Blend the tomatoes, roasted and peeled garlic, onions, pecans, peanuts, sesame seeds, oregano, peppercorns, cinnamon and cloves. Pass mixture through a sieve or food mill if needed, mixture should be completely smooth.
In Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat 2 Tbsp lard and cook chile mixture for about 10 minutes, it should be thick. Add the tomato and spice blend after that. Let mixture simmer, uncovered, until slightly reduced (a splatter screen is helpful here to save your stove from a huge mess).
Add 2 cups stock and a bit of salt and sugar - you will re-season later on, so don’t salt heavily at first. Cook 60 minutes and up to 2 hours, stirring often to make sure it doesn’t stick, adding more stock as it gets thick. This process of reducing and adding more stock can go on as long as you want. The longer it cooks, the deeper the flavours will be.
Add chocolate and stir to dissolve. Adjust salt seasoning at this point. Cook another 15 minutes, until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Serve with protein of your choice and roasted vegetables.
Leftover Mole can be frozen.
Serves 12.